Hi all, here is a small upgrade guide for those that are upgrading their mkI to MkII HW 2.30 and 2.40 ONLY
It is based on input from @martin and @Masarin and my experiences during my upgrade, I am not an authority on the matter, just providing this as guidance, follow this guide at your own risk.
You will need a T6 Torx or a 1,5 mm unbrako/Hex/allen Key and a T8 Torx or a 2 mm unbrako/Hex/Allen key.
One or more flat plastic parts to help free the old PCB, like a guitar pick or an iFixit kit. Avoid using a metal object as you can scratch the metal enclosure.
Keep the mkII PCB in its silver antistatic bag until you need it
Start by loosening the 12 knobs using the T6 Torx/1,5 mm unbrako/Hex/Allen Key and remove them. Do only loosen the screws enough to remove the knob from the axles.
Next, turn the controller over, and place it carefully on a clean and even surface to avoid scratches to the front surface, and ensure that the exposed ends of the 12 pots do not scratch your table surface.
Loosen and remove all the screws on the bottom plate (all with the T8 / 2 mm unbrako/Hex/Allen Key), ensure that you keep track of them all, there are 2 20 mm screws near the MIDI plugs, the others are 10 mm screws.
Remove the bottom plate :
Carefully lift out the bottom plate, you can assist it by turning over the controller and let gravity help you, just be careful not to drop the bottom plate.
Remove the 4 screws holding the PCB in place, note where they are located, and that they are 5 mm with a rounded head.
Wiggle out the PCB:
With the controller upside down and the 12 knobs nearest to you, locate near the left edge of the PCB the 40 and 8 pin connector that holds the PCB to the display PCB (red and yellow arrow in the image below), and CAREFULLY start to wiggle out the PCB, by lifting up in the free lower left corner of the PCB and the left end of the backplate with the MIDI connectors, ensure to keep the PCB level at all times, so that you do not bend the connectors or damage the PCB. This requires plastic tools and some patience and finesse, as you cannot see the connectors.
Suddenly, the PCB will be free, and you can lift it away.
- Remove the SD card from the display PCB
Since the new PCB comes with its own memory, you should remove the memory card located on the graphics PCB, it is near the upper left corner, and you can use a fingernail to slide it out of its pocket.
Replacing the new PCB
Carefully remove the new PCB from its antistatic bag, make sure to handle it by its edges as much as you can, avoid touching any gold plated contacts.
Locate it carefully in its new position (same as the old one), making sure to both align the 6 rubber buttons and the 40 pin and 8 pin connector at the same time.
Again, this takes some patience and finesse, make sure that you do not press down the PCB so that it tilts, and don’t press too hard as you can damage the connectors - and you cannot see what is happening. Again, patience and finesse.
Fixing the PCB and finishing the job
Once the PCB is located in it correct position, you can now screw in the four screws with rounded heads, make sure not to put the screws in the outermost holes in the corners of the PCB.
Next, place the backplate in its position, and fasten it with the remaining screws, make sure to use the two 20 mm long screws in the holes between the MIDI sockets, placing them in other holes can damage the metal enclosure and leave a bump on the front surface of your precious Electra.One controller!
Mount the 12 knobs and fasten the screws carefully.
… and then it is time to boot up! Connect the USB cable as usual, note that the bootscreen now says “mkII v3.0” and proceed to check for updates and get on with your mkII controller!
That’s it, feel free to add comments, correct my wording or spelling (English is not my native language…)
Good luck with your upgrade and all the best,
Great guide, Stubbe! I did mine this Monday in my lunch break and unfortunately had no time to document the steps. It wouldn’t had come out as perfect as yours anyway.
@Stubbe Thank you! I could never have done that better either. Since I am currently having some difficulties not related to E1 project, this really helped.
@Masarin your input / notes were actually used too, I passed them to @Stubbe.
It is worth mentioning that this guide applies to mk1 hw revision 2.30 too.
Cool! Only glad to be able to give a little back to this wonderful project and this great forum! So, in a way, @Masarin , you actually wrote half of this guide
All the best to you, @martin I am sure you will persevere!
Wish me luck!
I’m a little scared…
How did it go with your upgrade?
Nice! Now I’m getting kind of tempted too!
I really love the upgrade pack concept . I hope it will be still available in novembre ! i will buy it !!
Thanks Martin !!
I’m an MK1 user (first time on the forum!).
How do I purchase the upgrade kit?
(I reviewed the instructions above… have some modest DIY and circuit experience so totally manageable. ; )
Hi @sixwax and welcome to the forum! I could suggest you to write Martin a PM and let him know your HW rev (you can see that during boot), this guide is for 2.30 and 2.40 only, the earlier versions could be more complex to modify, at least that was mentioned way back - and your location, as taxes and shipping probably also varies.
The upgrade didn’t go well.
I was careless, that upgrade was not “compatible” with the hardware version ( hw2.4 with white USB connectors, not orange), so when I replaced the PCB, the display failed. (3.3V / 5V)
I was at Martin’s yesterday, he did the Upgrade for me in 30 Minutes , the display also had to be replaced.
Thank You @martin !
The “page select” thing works fine.
To prevent confusion or users being scared by the upgrade. @phonaak had quite a one-off Electra One. He bought a broken controller back in the past and we serviced / fixed it for him. I asked about the color of the connectors to be sure that his unit was ready for a standard upgrade. That part did not go well
There was only one unit like that. All stock hw 2.3 and 2.4 Electra One controllers have orange USB connectors and are fully compatible with the upgrade kit.
Hardware versions 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 need extra work (soldering on the display board) before they can be upgraded. So far, I was processing upgrades of 2.3 and 2.4. Owners of earlier revisions were asked to wait a little bit - I am still thinking about how to make a DIY upgrade possible and safe for those too.
this was your personal e1, because the display of the one you repaired had a problem with the display even after the repair, the bottom row did not respond to touch. that’s when I was with you for the first time, we exchanged E1 at the station
working perfectly . I didn’t even have time to put the buttons on it
I guesss, @phonaak, you could call your controller Electra One-and-Only (sorry, could not resist)
Impressive amount of controllers you have, my brain would melt, nice dog too!
Got the upgrade PCB yesterday, substitute the old PCB, worked flawless, thanks Martin and Zdenek.
I could suggest you to write Martin a PM and let him know your HW rev (you can see that during boot), this guide is for 2.30 and 2.40 only,
What’s Martin’s username on here?
(My email has not seen a reply )
I may be being an idiot, but I don’t seem to be able to start a personal chat with @martin using the forum software. (Security?)
Me: interested in the v1->v2 Upgrade Kit (v2.40 Hardware, orange USB connectors). Location: California, USA